Uman – Ukraine

This is probably my seventh or eighth trip to Kiev. Every time I told myself that I had to visit Uman and I did nothing. This time I did. When I arrived in Uman, it turned out that there was a celebration that night to mark the day of the Rebbe’s death (fifth night in the Sukkot). When I said that I just arrived, they didn’t believe my good luck.

Uman is a town that has the power of God, that if it wasn’t for Rebbe Nachman no one would have heard of it. There is no sign inside the town for “Ziun” (the grave), but every local person you stop on the way, who of course does not speak English, and you ask him “Rebbe Nachman?” (exactly like that) will direct you, and when you approach the place, dominant language is Hebrew. In my opinion Uman is the same as Goa but for ultra-orthodox. There is no one here who is not a freak (except for the hasidim – even those I probably have no means to judge). I have not seen two people dressed alike, some dressed in stripes, some in black silk, some in high, low, fur or felt hoods, long white socks, not to mention the ‘hozrim be’schuva’ (newly born) dressed from normal to completely trashy. But without a doubt all of them are wierd at one level or another (and contrary to my custom, I talked to a lot of them and was very patient). They welcomed me with pleasure, Israel Gottlieb adopted me, arranged accommodation for me (I refused to accept it for free – I preferred a hotel), invited me to a meal, took me on a tour of the Ziun, taught me to say general prayers, and left me alone. In principle, they do not bother you. If you don’t approach them, you won’t be bothered. But, and here there is a big but, if you ask a question, you get a very long answer – about Rebbe Nachman and Rebbe Natan and Rebbe Pinchas and the books, and the geniuses, and what not. Lots of legends, and everyone tells you that they are not smart enough to understand but feel the truth and the light.

Contrary to my customs, I decided to fully participate – I went to “pray”, ate in the company, danced, sang and jumped with everyone, and I took pictures like crazy. Undoubtedly an anthropological experience in a community that is at the peak of strangeness.

Then of course the money – let there be no doubt that this is an industry. At first glance everything is free, the entrance, the meal, the accommodation (for those who want it), the entertainment, in short everything. Everything you want will be provided to you in seconds, for free and with a smile. But the amount of money people pour into charity there is unbelievable. Lighting the bonfire – dollars, a bottle of oil to pour on the bonfire – shekels, leading a prayer – hryvnia, kiddush – euros, etc., etc. In short, if you want respect, you will pay.

Viewed from above, this is a sect that the main thing is that you believe (because there is no chance that you will understand). I think they attract freaks because the principle is that you are not told what to do, there are no clear rules, just come and be happy and donate to charity and the Rebbe will do everything to make you feel good. Reminds me of Hare Krishna, also there the foundation is very simple and built on strong faith. I’m sure in both cases there is depth but all the people I’ve talked to haven’t gone deep enough yet.

On the sidelines of the story – I walked around Jerusalem and who did I meet? The beautiful Ethiopian who danced in Uman (and I took maybe 300 pictures of him). Of course we exchanged hugs and experiences and I told him that I tore my Achilles tendon while dancing in Uman, he claims that this is a sign that Rebbe Nachman treated my pride.