Peru – we heard a lot but what we saw was dozens of times better, we crossed the country from south to north in the center of the country, most of the time on the Andes (every time we came down from the Andes we liked it less).
Summary - only superlatives
March, 2018
We traveled in Peru from south to north, like tourists – Arequipa (an interesting ancient city, the monastery of Santa Catalina is highly recommended), Colca Canyon (almost the deepest in the world, observation of condors), Puno and Lake Titicaca, Cusco (the city of stairs, that is built on the slopes of the surrounding mountains), the Sacred valley to Machu Picchu, the road 3S to Lima and along the coast to Ecuador (we were not thrilled by the arid coastal area of Peru and Lima so we returned to the Andes).
The landscapes in Peru are amazing and diverse, from the bald peaks of the Andes at an altitude of 5000 meters to a desert landscape along the coast. The roads we drove were of a reasonable quality, most of them paved, reasonably maintained, with sparse traffic (mainly trucks and public transportation), yet keep you alert all the time – potholes, landslides, overtaking vehicles, Irish bridges, and just animals. The amount of police, both in vehicles and on foot, is scary. Most of the time it is not clear what their role is, since they are usually not noted especially when they are trying to direct the traffic, but they are always nice both when they stop you and when they were not supposed to be nice (for example when you overtook a car on a white line, or when you rode in the city without a helmet – in all cases we were released after they recognized that we did not have a common language ). The most popular means of transportation is a rickshaw (tuktuk), in some cities you will hardly see a regular vehicle, only rickshaws of every shade and color. We discovered that two new rickshaws could be purchased in exchange for our motorcycle, we considered the issue, after all it is more spacious, but decided unanimously to continue with our Cadillac.
Almost every town/village in Peru looks like one big market that starts at the entrance and ends at the exit with all the colors and the smell and the noise, except for the central square which is always well-kept with grass and statues (and full of policemen who guard the grass) and except for the schools – in every town, even the most remote, the school is the most well-kept building, painted, preserved, and stands out from afar. The cities in our opinion are clean and you have to remember that they look like a market and are still clean (let’s say compared to Argentina or Chile), but the entrances to the cities are one big dump, the roads leading to the cities are paved with piles of garbage and smell like a dump. When we asked about the phenomenon, it turns out that there is no municipal garbage disposal in the cities, so people throw the garbage outside.
Despite what you’d be told about fish dishes, ceviche, and food diversity in Peru, the national dish is chicken with fries. In the survey we conducted in most restaurants, this is what is available (a menu for 8 sol includes a quarter of chicken, chips, salad and a drink). Although we wanted otherwise, about half of the time that is what we ended up eating and some of us are vegetarians… Oh, and there’s also grandma’s chicken soup. And amazing sabras (five huge sabras for a shekel).
The Peruvians don’t smile often, nor do they talk too much, but they are always willing to help, we never once encountered an angry Peruvian, they didn’t try to cheat us (and even if they did we haven’t noticed).
In summary – Peru is the country most reminiscent of India that we have met so far – the rickshaws, and the potholed roads, many people dressed in colors with funny hats, chaos in the electricity and telephone poles, the houses that are not entirely built and the number of policemen on the streets, but unlike India, driving on the roads is reasonable and the city centers are clean. You can even find some nice corners that remind you of Europe at its best – clean, tidy, with colonial architecture. We loved it!!!
Ilo
March, 2018
In our imagination Peru is the peak of the trip, we heard a lot about the country – the good food, the amazing people, the cheap prices and the special natural landscapes. Since neither of us have been there before, the mind works overtime and we have built an image of a country we want to visit.
Most of the houses, from Lima to the most remote villages, look like if someone started to build them but didn’t finish, even though people already live inside them – a significant number without a roof, only walls, some have a roof but some of the walls are mats, and some have a fence around but the whole house is covered with mats. In all the houses, even the most luxurious ones, plaster and paint are done only in the front, on the sides and of course at the back you see the bricks. There is always preparation for the construction of another floor, and there is almost always a floor that has not yet been finished. Even the hotels always seem to be in the middle of construction, all the gas stations are under construction, and everything feels like a construction site and gives the feeling that if we arrive in two years everything will be finished to glory.
Arequipa
March, 2018
Arequipa is the first city where the Spanish settled in 1500 and it has been pretty much preserved since then (with the exception of an earthquake here and there). The old city is really beautiful with white stone buildings, full of churches and monasteries, and is very preserved architecturally and environmentally (really clean here). It is not considered a top attraction in Peru, so it is not full of tourists.
I once heard that a Jew sees a store, let’s say for housewares, immediately sets up another store for housewares right next to it. For example, in Herzl there are many carpentry shops, in Nachalat Binyamin cloth shops and the like. The Peruvians took the idea a few steps further. One block specializes in optics, we stopped counting after 17 shops on the street and it goes on and on, at least 50 different optician shops right next to each other. We visited the market, it is divided into columns and each column has a theme, for example hats, fruits, meat, pickles… that is 10-15 shops that sell hats next to each other and so on. I have no idea how they make money.
Titicaca
March, 2018
The condor is the symbol of Peru, it is not easily spotted because it lives in the cliffs. The deepest canyon in the world is in Peru (3000+ meters deep), deeper than the Grand Canyon but much less impressive, there is a track that runs along it and at one of the spots there is an observation point for condors. The observation deck extends for several hundred meters and the condors put on a show.
Peruvian women walk around with a hat like a top hat but small. This is not for tourists, the old women are indeed dressed like that, and the funny thing is that it was brought here from Spain by the conquerors, where it disappeared years ago and here it has become a tradition (which will probably disappear soon too).
Ollantaytambo, near Machu Picchu
March, 2018
Altitude sickness – both of us have not experienced this until now even though we have already been in high places (the disease begins to affect from an altitude of 2,500 meters and up) but apparently, until Peru, we have not been there long enough to feel the effects. We have been at an altitude of 3,500 and above for a week and although we feel a little better, we are still quite sick. If you check what the symptoms are, then between Ira and I we had all the symptoms – headache (Ira), insomnia (Yoav), lack of air for any simple activity (Ira and Yoav), and general weakness… The funny thing is that here the number of stairs to reach to various places is much more than at any other place. From here we are on our way to the sea – as we know, the altitude there is 0 (it will take us 3-4 days of riding) so all the effort we made to adapt to the altitude was really unnecessary.
Everywhere we go there are women (mostly older ones) dressed in traditional clothing (every village has a different dress). At first we thought it was special for tourists, because most of them sell souvenirs, take pictures with llamas or all kinds of touristy things, but then we realized that in remote villages almost all of them wear this clothing. The special thing is the hats they wear – the most common is a top hat, followed by a cowboy hat (small), but there is also a triangular hat with a pom pom on each side, an upside-down hat (which can capture water when it rains), a hat with brims that hides the face, and so on.
Machu Picchu
March, 2018
We are not people of antiquities, but Machu Picchu… a visit to Peru is not possible without a visit to the site. Visits are limited to 2,500 people per day in two shifts (March is the off-season, so we didn’t encounter any entry problems). The journey starts from Cusco, through the “Sacred Valley” which contains several Inca sites (we liked the salt mines on the way), to a town whose name is impossible to pronounce (Ollantaytambo), from there by train to another town (Aguas Calientes) and from there by bus to the site – this is the simplest and most expensive way, but you can also do parts on foot, taxis or buses. The organization is exemplary and uncompromising, despite the large number of tourists. However, in our opinion, the uniqueness of Machu Picchu is not in the site, which is amazing in a breathtaking landscape, but rather in the surrounding story. It begins with a mystery, why did the Incas build the city on top of a mountain, continues with a culture without sophisticated tools, without even the wheel and yet who took on a project of such magnitude, and ends with the fact that everything has lasted hundreds of years without maintenance (85% of the site is authentic and only 15% is restored). So despite the tourists and despite the bureaucracy (it takes a good few hours to organize everything) and the costs, the site is unique and definitely on the same level as the Red Rock, the Grand Canyon and the Western Wall.
Road 3S
March, 2018
Road 3S runs for about 900 km from the Cusco region to the coast in the Pisco region. It looks like a piece of cake, but a closer look at the map indicates that it is a road where turn of only “90 degrees” are considered a luxury. The road crosses the Andes so that after climbing several times a day to heights close to 5000 meters and descending to heights lower than 2000 meters. The temperature also goes from 2-3 degrees in the heights to 20-22 in the valleys and you have to change summer for winter gear and vice versa. Part of the time we rode in clouds (zero visibility, 100% humidity), and sometimes we even rode above the clouds.
So far everything is great – the scenery is amazing, from alpine views through moonscapes to desert areas similar to the Judean desert. Sometimes we drive in valleys with steep walls on both sides and sometimes along mountain peaks when the view of the Andes can be seen far into the distance, sometimes the stream passes under the road and sometimes above it. When the stream passes over the road and there is a settlement in the proximity, it is a business opportunity – you can stop in the stream and a boy will quickly wash your car in fresh stream water. This despite the signs that warn not to wash a car in the stream.
The road is in great condition, paved for the most part, well marked, with signage and safety barriers that could compete with an autobahn in Germany and everything could have been wonderful, but… On road signs all over the world you will see the warning of falling stones – it always seems unnecessary because the stones don’t really fall and if even if they do, what exactly should we to do with this information? There are almost no such signs on road 3S, it’s unnecessary, the stones on the road are clear evidence that there was a landslide here, not one, not two…hundreds, sometimes it’s just a big stone lying in the middle of the road, sometimes a huge rock and sometimes a landslide that blocks the whole path. It can also appear in the middle of a U-turn and then you should be at the right speed because your lane is completely blocked and a vehicle in front of you is blocking the other lane (speaking from experience).
Towards the end of the road, you switch to road 28 which is free of landslides but with many places that someone forgot to put the black stuff on top (the asphalt), as if they said “if there are no landslides on the road, how will we keep the drivers alert?”.
In short, the road is highly recommended for those who like to ride when the motorcycle is not in a completely vertical position. By the way, it doesn’t matter what your driving speed is, a transit (service taxi) will always overtake you.
About packaging and stuff...
On our motorcycle there are three metal boxes, a bag on the fuel tank, and a fabric bag tied to the back box. Below is the breakdown:
>> A box used for motorcycle tools and winter equipment
>> A box used for the equipment we brought but not really use
>> A box for winter or summer clothes (since we change the weather once every two days) as well as for less useful everyday equipment
>> These three boxes stay on the motorcycle and are not taken to the hotel every day
>> The fuel tank bag, our computers, the camera and other electronics
>> The bag with our everyday things (clothes, toiletries, food and drink)
Why am I telling this? Because it took us a long time to reach this arrangement. At first we took down all the boxes and bags every evening, then only one box and the bag and now only the bag (and the fuel tank bag).
Despite the order and organization, the “inflating phenomenon” exists.
>> Despite the law that you don’t buy anything unless you throw away something equivalent in volume,
>> and although we started with about 20 books left in hotels (now we both only read electronic),
>> and although we occasionally forget some of our equipment in hotels (changing hotels every day takes a toll)…
Despite all this, our bags are expanding day by day. Reminds of the phenomenon of dark matter in the universe (we know it exists but cannot explain it). Since the universe is constantly expanding there is no danger of explosion, in our case only the canvas bag can expand and it is quite close to exploding.
Luckily we had stages to get used to the situation – from house to motorhome, from motorhome to car (in California for almost a month), and from car to motorcycle.
We will report when it explodes.